THE SKINCARE PRODUCTS YOU SHOULD & SHOULDN'T MIX | SHOP SKINCARE FOR DARK SPOTS
I often find myself reading about that new "latest & greatest" skincare product. You know the one. It promises "wrinkle free" or "clear, even toned (minus all those dark spots!)" skin. Those promises make it very tempting to add that new product to your routine. (That's what marketing is all about!) And if you can get the layering right, it's definitely doable! But there are some things you need to consider anytime you add something new. Throw the wrong combination into the mix and one product can cancel another out. Or even worse, some products when combined create a perfect storm of flaking, redness, and irritation.
Below Is a List of Ingredients That Don’t Play Well With Others.
Please keep in mind that this is a list of products that you should avoid combining when layering your skincare. I'm not referring to manufactured skincare products that combine the ingredients in one bottle or tube. Manufacturers are able to manipulate the ingredients so that they work together MUCH BETTER than either your or I could. They have scientists and tips and tricks and clinical studies that we just don't.
I've also included ingredients that are compatible, so you have some good alternatives. Hope this helps!
1. Retinoids
Retinoids are recommended by just about everyone. If you can use them, you should. That said, retinoids can be irritating to skin. However, over time, the irritation usually disappears. So most people feel the benefits of retinoids (wrinkle reduction, a more even skin tone, quicker skin cell turnover, increased collagen production, acne treatment) far outweigh the drawbacks!
Don't mix retinoids with VITAMIN C.
“Vitamin C has a very acidic pH, and (when layered) together they can be unstable.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner, Director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Instead, use Vitamin C in the morning and retinoids in the evening.
Don't mix retinoids with exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, etc.) Together they'll create red, peeling, painful skin. Note: Hyaluronic acid is a different kind of acid that is used to moisturize skin. It's not an exfoliating acid. Hyaluronic acid is great to use with retinoids.
“They’re both harsh on the skin individually, so they cause even more detriment when used together.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
BUT - and there's always a BUT, isn't there?! There's a product from SkinBetter Science called AlphaRet. It combines AHAs with retinol to give you beautiful skin!
"The AHA absorbs moisture and hydrates skin, reducing the irritating effects of the retinoids, so we can use a way higher dose than in even prescription-strength formulas. Plus, AHAs improve skin's permeability, so more retinoids can get in." - Dr. Bruce Katz, New York City Dermatologist
Instead of layering acids and retinoids, use them on different days - unless your skin is VERY oily.
The two together, “can be too drying for the skin, but if your skin can handle the two in tandem, then stick to a salicylic acid wash (which would only be in contact with your skin for a short time before rinsing) or a spot treatment, and use the retinol and/or retinoid on the entire face.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman
Don't mix retinoids with benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is used to treat acne. It's strong stuff on it's own, so when the 2 are mixed it's the perfect recipe for dry, flaky, peeling skin.
Some doctors don't recommend layering benzoyl peroxide with a topical retinoid (like retinol) - especially tretinoin (the prescription retinoid). This is because there are a few studies that suggest that when layering the 2 together, benzoyl peroxide causes degradation of the retinoid molecules. Newer studies have shown that this might not happen with all formulations of tretinoin.
Instead of layering benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, use them separately. Apply benzoyl peroxide in the morning and your retinoid in the evening. By separating the 2, you'll get less dry, peeling skin. You'll also know for sure that your retinoid isn't being degraded by your benzoyl peroxide. Epiduo® (adapalene 0.1% / 2.5% benzoyl peroxide) Gel and Epiduo® Forte (adapalene 0.3% / 2.5% benzoyl peroxide) Gel are available by prescription. They treat acne by combining adapalene, a retinoid, and benzoyl peroxide in one cream that works really well.
Don't mix retinoids with peels, waxing, or facials. Instead, stop using your retinoid 1 day before and 2 days after peels, waxing, or any kind of facial treatment that might irritate your skin.
“If waxing is done while these are being used, very often small tears in the skin (especially on the eyelids) may occur. The same may occur with peels, such as glycolic peels.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
Don't mix retinoids with UV light / sunlight. Sunlight and UV light, like you're exposed to in tanning beds, break down retinoids. Instead, apply your retinoid at night.
Isotretinoin is the oral form of vitamin A. It does not mix well with sunlight at all. Most people who take it say they sunburn more easily while taking it. Although it looks like a sunburn, the redness is really a rash caused by the isotretinoin being activated by sun exposure. It feels like a burning and stinging and can even occur on areas that weren't exposed to sun.
“Some of the older retinoids are not stable in UV light, so that is one of the reasons why they were recommended to only be applied at night.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman, Board-Certified Dermatologic Surgeon
DO MIX retinoids & sunscreen.
“The retinoid effect is that it enhances cell turnover and thus makes skin more prone to UV radiation. So we must protect against this by wearing daily sunscreen with an SPF 30 or higher. Note, the retinoid effect lasts for days after application, so it’s best to make sure to protect daily, and not just the day you’ve used retinol. Just remember, your retinoid is applied at night and your SPF is to be applied in the morning.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman
DO MIX retinoids & niacinamide.
“Niacinamide is a calming ingredient that reduces inflammation and brightens the skin and may help reduce irritation with the retinoids.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
DO MIX retinoids & moisturizer.
“If you’re using a retinol/retinoid, moisturizing is a must. Retinoids can be inherently irritating to the skin, and moisturizers help to calm and hydrate the skin to combat that effect. Apply the retinoid onto the skin first, then moisturize on top. If your skin is too sensitive to the retinoid effect, you can also mix a little drop of retinoid in with your moisturizer, and then apply the mixture to the skin. Over time, your skin will get tolerant of these side effects.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman
2. VITAMIN C
Vitamin C is an antioxidant and powerhouse ingredient. It's another one where, if you can use it, you really should! Why? Because Vitamin C (sometimes called ascorbic acid) decreases skin water loss. It increases collagen formation in your skin, lightens dark spots, and improves inflammation. Studies have shown that, after 6 months of use, there's a significant increase in skin density and a decrease in deep wrinkles. There's also evidence of elastic tissue repair. In each study, vitamin C was well tolerated. But vitamin C doesn't mix well with several ingredients.
Don't mix Vitamin C with acids like AHAs, BHAs, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid. You see, vitamin C formulations with a pH (a measure of how acidic or alkaline a product is) greater than 3.5 are not able to penetrate skin. Acids like salicylic acid and glycolic acid both change the pH of any ingredients mixed with them. So your vitamin C won't have the opportunity to improve your skin because those acids raise its pH. That's not to say that when these ingredients are mixed by the manufacturer they won't work - because they will. Products like SkinCeuticals C + AHA #ad are formulated so the 2 ingredients work together. But the manufacturer is doing the mixing and is testing to make sure the product works. When you're applying them yourself, separating these ingredients should give you a better result.
“Vitamin C is a very temperamental ingredient that requires an acidic pH to remain stable and can easily become inactivated.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
Instead, apply your vitamin C serum in the morning and your AHAs and BHAs before bed.
Don't mix Vitamin C with retinoids. Remember how I talked about the pH of vitamin C earlier? It needs to be at a pH of 3.5 (acidic) or lower to penetrate your skin. But retinoids need to be closer to neutral (5.0 - 6.0) or slightly higher. (Your retinoid will still work in an acidic pH, but not as well.) When you mix the 2, the numbers don't work. That said, there are skincare products that do combine the 2 ingredients. They usually contain a "micronized" or "encapsulated" form of retinoid that slowly releases the retinoid over time. The theory is that the acidic vitamin C will be delivered first, allowing your skin time to return to its natural pH of about 4.7. Then your retinoid can step in and work its magic - without interference from your meddling vitamin C.
Instead, try applying your vitamin C in the morning and a retinoid at night.
DO MIX vitamin C with vitamin E.
“Vitamin A helps to smooth lines and wrinkles while increasing moisture and elasticity. Vitamin C minimizes imperfections in the skin including uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, and can reduce the appearance of acne scars. Vitamin E defends against and disables free radicals made by the body. Note that vitamin C and vitamin E are both important to apply topically everyday in your cocktail. Not only are they synergistic, but Vitamin C is water-soluble, while vitamin E is lipid-soluble. Together, they penetrate into the different phases of the skin and neutralize free radicals in their path.” - Dr. Dennis Gross, dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon in New York City
Try SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic #ad. It's the serum that put SkinCeuticals on the map.
DO MIX vitamin C & sunscreen.
“Sunscreens block UV light from penetrating into the skin, and antioxidants are the safety net that put out the fires from anything that passed through.” - Dr. Karyn Grossman, Dermatologist in Santa Monica
3. BENZOYL PEROXIDE
Benzoyl Peroxide is used to treat acne. It works by limiting bacteria growth without causing bacterial resistance (when the bacteria become enough to defeat the drugs designed to kill them). It may also decrease inflammation.
Don't mix benzoyl peroxide with retinoids. As mentioned above, both are very strong ingredients. And when used together, it's the perfect recipe for dry, flaky, peeling skin.
Some doctors don't recommend layering benzoyl peroxide with a topical retinoid (like retinol) - especially tretinoin (the prescription retinoid). This is because there are a few studies that suggest that when layering the 2 together, benzoyl peroxide causes degradation of the retinoid molecules. Newer studies have shown that this might not happen with all formulations of tretinoin.
Instead of layering benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, use them separately. Apply benzoyl peroxide in the morning and your retinoid in the evening. By separating the 2, you'll get less dry, peeling skin. You'll also know for sure that your retinoid isn't being degraded by your benzoyl peroxide. Epiduo (adapalene 0.1% / 2.5% benzoyl peroxide) Gel and Epiduo Forte (adapalene 0.3% / 2.5% benzoyl peroxide) Gel are available by prescription. They treat acne by combining adapalene, a retinoid, and benzoyl peroxide in one cream that works really well.
DO MIX Benzoyl Peroxide & Moisturizer. Apply moisturizer before spot-treating with benzoyl peroxide.
“Studies have shown that if you take care of the skin barrier first and hydrate it, it allows the benzoyl peroxide to work more effectively.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
DO MIX Benzoyl Peroxide & Salicylic or Glycolic Acid. Glycolic acid is a alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the surface of your skin. Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates by penetrating the top layer of your skin. It penetrates oil. Both of these acids complement benzoyl peroxide. Try a benzoyl peroxide spot treatment over a salicylic or glycolic acid toner #ad or wash.
"Many patients with oily skin benefit from washes, lotions, and creams that contain glycolic acid to help reduce excessive oil and prevent the plugging of pores that leads to acne breakouts." - Dr. Robert Anolik, Clinical Assistant Professor of Dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center
"They (salicylic and glycolic acids) exfoliate skin, allowing benzoyl peroxide to penetrate deeper." - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
4. EXFOLIATING ACIDS LIKE BHAs & AHAs
Don't mix exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, etc.) with retinoids. Together they'll create red, peeling, painful skin. Note: Hyaluronic acid is a different kind of acid that is used to moisturize skin. It's not an exfoliating acid. Hyaluronic acid is great to use with exfoliating acids.
“They’re both harsh on the skin individually, so they cause even more detriment when used together.” - Dr. Joshua Zeichner
BUT - and there's always a BUT, isn't there?! There's a product from SkinBetter Science called AlphaRet. It combines AHAs with retinol to give you beautiful skin!
"The AHA absorbs moisture and hydrates skin, reducing the irritating effects of the retinoids, so we can use a way higher dose than in even prescription-strength formulas. Plus, AHAs improve skin's permeability, so more retinoids can get in." - Dr. Bruce Katz, New York City Dermatologist
Instead of layering acids and retinoids, use them on different days - unless your skin is VERY oily.
The two together, “can be too drying for the skin, but if your skin can handle the two in tandem, then stick to a salicylic acid wash (which would only be in contact with your skin for a short time before rinsing) or a spot treatment, and use the retinol and/or retinoid on the entire face.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman
DO MIX exfoliating acids & moisturizer.
“Hydrating your skin is a must, regardless of skin type. If you deny your skin of moisture, over-exfoliate and use astringent excessively, you will over-strip your skin.” - Dr. Dennis Gross
“If you’re working with salicylic or glycolic acid, they need to be coupled with some sort of moisturizer or lotion to combat the drying effects that they can have on the skin. If your skin is oily and acne-prone, use an oil-free moisturizer to add back the hydration that could be stripped away.” - Dr. Dendy Engelman
DO MIX exfoliating acids & sunscreen. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. It creates softer, smoother skin. You can minimize your risk of dark spots by using a broad-spectrum sunblock.
“The severity of our sunspots can be reduced with the use of a broad-spectrum sunblock and added SPF 15 at the minimum. Spots on the skin are actually our skin’s defensive reaction to the sun, but if protected, less melanin pigment will be produced.” - Dr. Dennis Gross
5. ORAL ANTIBIOTICS & OTHER MEDICATIONS CAN CAUSE SUN SENSITIVITY
Some medications shouldn't be mixed with sun (or tanning beds - which are a bad idea anyway!). They cause 2 kinds of reactions that can happen to anyone who takes enough of the drug and is exposed to enough sun.
- Phototoxic reactions look like a bad sunburn with swelling and redness. Sometimes blisters form. People complain that the area is tender, painful, and burns. And sometimes there are dark spots (hyperpigmentation) left after this reaction.
- Photoallergic reactions look more like eczema and can occur in areas not exposed to light.
When taking these medications, or using these ingredients, your best bet is to avoid sun exposure as much as possible. If you have to be out in the sun, use sunscreen and sun protective clothing. A hat and sunglasses are a really good idea!
The following lists of medications are from the article, Medscape | Drug-Induced Photosensitivity, by Alexandra Y Zhang, MD, Staff Physician, Dermatology & Plastic Institute, Cleveland Clinic Foundation.
Some ingredients in sunscreens can cause phototoxic or photoallergic reactions:
- Para-aminobenzoic acid
- Cinnamates
- Benzophenones
- Salicylates
Some fragrances cause problems too:
- Musk ambrette
- 6-Methylcoumarin.
Medications & Classes of Drugs That Can Cause Phototoxic & Photoallergic Reactions:
- Tetracyclines (doxycycline, tetracycline)
- Fluoroquinolones (ciprofloxacin, ofloxacin, levofloxacin)
- Sulfonamides
- Ibuprofen
- Ketoprofen
- Naproxen
- Celecoxib
- Furosemide
- Bumetanide
- Hydro-chlorothiazide (HCTZ)
- Isotretinoin
- Acitretin
- Sulfonylureas (glipizide, glyburide)
- Statins (atorvastatin, fluvastatin, lovastatin, pravastatin, simvastatin)
- Cetuximab, panitumumab, erlotinib, gefitinib, lapatinib, vandetanib
- Vemurafenib, sorafenib
- Aminolevulinic acid
- Methyl-5-aminolevulinic acid
- Verteporfin
- Photofrin
- Phenothiazines (chlorpromazine, fluphenazine, perazine, perphenazine, thioridazine)
- Thioxanthenes (chlorprothixene, thiothixene)
- Terbinafine
- Itraconazole
- Voriconazole
- Griseofulvin
- Para-aminobenzoic acid
- 5-Fluorouracil
- Paclitaxel
- Amiodarone
- Diltiazem
- Quinidine
- Hydroxychloroquine
- Coal tar
- Enalapril
- Dapsone
- Oral contraceptives
Below You'll Find Some Skincare Products Great for Dark Spots & Hyperpigmentation!
My beautiful girls - who've worn sunscreen practically every day since they were born - have freckles. I think their freckles are pretty (I'm one of those people who love freckles). But someday my girls may not like their freckles. Or they may develop dark spots from one of the OH-SO-MANY things that cause dark spots (acne scars, sun exposure, hormone changes, and laser treatments gone bad, to name a few). They may start to dream of even skin.
Because it doesn't matter how old you are.
Eventually, "the mistakes of our past start to catch up to us, usually in the form of sun damage," says Dr. Dendy Engelman.
When you're in your 20s, skin damage, like freckles and dark spots, starts to show. Sometimes they only show underneath those scary UV lights at the med spa - but they're there. When that happens, it's time to incorporate a retinoid into your skincare routine. It'll speed cell turnover and you'll be rid of those spots much more quickly.
"Retinol helps diminish the appearance of sun spots, minimize the appearance of pores, and even reduce blemishes," says Dr. Engelman.
But don't stop there! You need to focus on prevention! Applying an SPF 30 (or greater) sunscreen every single day will give you the most bang for your buck.
"Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB ultraviolet rays to help reverse damage and prevent more from occurring," says Dr. David E. Bank, Dermatologist in Mount Kisco, New York.
If dark spots happen to you, there are skincare products to treat them! See below!
But First, Let’s talk About the Elephant in the Room: SHIPPING COSTS.
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Amy Takken, RN
Amy Takken is a registered nurse with 20+ years of experience helping people improve their health. Her in-depth skincare articles have been featured on Nazarian Plastic Surgery and The Palm Beach Center for Facial Plastic & Laser Surgery. She's also been quoted on Dermascope.com. Amy loves research and constantly watches for new products and treatments to help you improve your skin’s health – because healthy skin is beautiful! To reach Amy, visit our contact page.
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References:
https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty/skincare-ingredients-mix/
https://www.honestyforyourskin.co.uk/skincare-ingredients-you-should-never-mix/
https://www.newbeauty.com/blog/dailybeauty/6453-is-mixing-skin-care-products-dangerous/
https://www.thehealthy.com/beauty/face-body-care/skin-care-ingredients-you-shouldnt-mix/
https://www.shefinds.com/skincare-products-you-should-never-mix/
https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty/skincare-ingredients-mix/
https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/skincare-ingredients-never-mix_us_5a6a0f59e4b06e253265821c
https://globalnews.ca/news/3332850/these-are-the-skincare-ingredients-you-should-never-mix/
https://www.allure.com/gallery/skin-care-ingredients-that-counteract-each-other
https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/layer-skin-care-beauty-products#slide-1
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2958193/ Absence of Degradation of Tretinoin When Benzoyl Peroxide is Combined with an Optimized Formulation of Tretinoin Gel (0.05%)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12823436 Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/ Vitamin C in dermatology
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18489300 Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora.
https://www.futurederm.com/how-do-retinoids-work/
https://practicaldermatology.com/articles/2009-apr/PD0409_01-php Manage and Prevent Isotretinoin Side Effects
https://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1049648-overview Drug-Induced Photosensitivity
https://www.allure.com/gallery/how-to-fix-early-signs-of-aging
Disclaimer:
The Information provided on our website is not medical advice and should not be viewed as such. By law, only a medical doctor can diagnose or give medical advice. As a registered nurse, my goal is to educate, so I provide information on skin care, skin care products, and skin care treatments. If you have any condition that concerns you, please see a medical doctor. While most skin conditions are benign, some - like melanoma - can be deadly. If there is any doubt, please, please consult your physician. Thank you!